West Fjords Road Trip

One of the segments of our Iceland trip was a road trip through the West Fjords.

Doc in a West Fjords Hotspring
Doc in a West Fjords Hotspring
Hot Springs in the West Fjords
Hot Springs in the West Fjords
Doc and the Necropants in the Sorcery Museum in Hólmavík
Doc and the Necropants in the Sorcery Museum in Hólmavík
Butterknot Charm in the Sorcery Museum in Hólmavík
Charm in the Sorcery Museum in Hólmavík
A Draug Coming out of the Floor in the Sorcery Museum in Hólmavík
A Draug Coming out of the Floor in the Sorcery Museum in Hólmavík
A Charm to Bring Storms in the Sorcery Museum in Hólmavík
A Charm to Bring Storms in the Sorcery Museum in Hólmavík
West Fjords Dolphins
West Fjords Dolphins
Ísafjörður Boats
Ísafjörður Boats
Úr álögum, in Ísafjörður
Úr álögum, in Ísafjörður

In Hólmavík there is a sorcery museum, which is about sorcery as practiced in Iceland during the Reformation Era. They have grimoires that describe staves for spells, etc.

They also have several exhibits where they recreate some of the spells that folklore says the sorcerers would do. Like they have a Draug coming out of the floor next to the spell for “Stave to wake up a Draug” and they have a model of the folkloric Necropants, etc.

They also talk about how Reformation Era Iceland was a very rough place. When the Vikings first colonized it, it was covered with trees, but since it is an island they eventually cut them all down. So by the 1600’s, you get stories like a guy being arrested for being accused of stealing another guy’s driftwood. Or a priest who got arrested for having a stave which was supposed to ward off sheep thieves. Tough times.

And also how the whole culture clash began, with the sheriffs going abroad to Denmark et al to go to college and study, and getting the ideas of sorcery being wicked and bad and suddenly they start persecuting what was previously just thought to be folk arts for luck and were now framed as evil sorcery.

In Ísafjörður, we got to visit Skóbúðin, the Museum of Everyday Life, which was spectacular!

We also got to visit some hot springs during this segment of the road trip.

Sleepy Time

The very first time I had ever played Morrowind, I didn’t realize that I had the Tribunal DLC installed. The very first night that I slept on the very first time I had ever played Morrowind was in Caius’ bed (with his permission). I was tired and beat up due to my walk from Sedya Neen to Balmora. And then, of course, a Dark Brotherhood assassin attacked me immediately. This was confusing enough, but even more confounding was Caius’ refusal to assist me in any way.

So I got rid of all the DLC and played Vanilla Morrowind for my first playthrough, and didn’t install Tribunal or Bloodmoon until after I’d defeated Dagoth Ur. The proper way to do it, if you ask me! It doesn’t make any sense that you’d be targeted in this way when you’re some nobody fresh off the boat.

Photos from Hornstrandir

Taking the ferry to Hornstrandir!
Taking the ferry to Hornstrandir!

 

As I mentioned previously, Doc and I got to do a 5-day backpacking trip in Hornstrandir! It was something I had been looking forward to for a long time, and it was very beautiful and spectacular and surreal – definitely worth it.

Hiking the Horn Loop Hornstrandir

We also got to see arctic foxes every day while we were there, so that was fun too.

Arctic Fox at Hornvík in Hornstrandir
An arctic fox scavenging on the beach for fish etc
Arctic Fox in Hornstrandir
A running arctic fox
Hornstrandir
Arctic fox footprints

And, of course, the scenery was absolutely gorgeous.

Hiking near Veiðileysufjörður in Hornstrandir
Doc hiking near a stream near Veiðileysufjörður
Streams near Veiðileysufjörður in Hornstrandir
A stream near Veiðileysufjörður
Hornvík in Hornstrandir
A distant view of the Horn from HornvÍk
Our campsite at Hornvík in Hornstrandir
Our campsite near Hornvík
Hornstrandir
The King and Queen of Cliffs as seen from the Horn
Hornstrandir
Lots of waterfalls in Hornstrandir. In Iceland, really. To quote Doc, “This whole country is just leaking water out of everywhere.”
King and Queen of Cliffs in Hornstrandir
The King and Queen of Cliffs

Hiking to the King and Queen of Cliffs in Hornstrandir

Camping in Hornstrandir
Rise and shine! (I’m not a morning person)
Hornstrandir
Alas, it was foggy on the day we visited the King and Queen of Cliffs. But that meant we had great weather when we hiked the Horn loop over Hornbjarg.
Hornstrandir
Oh and I should probably mention that you have to cross hundreds of streams in Hornstrandir. No trail in all of Hornstrandir does not involve at least 1 stream crossing. Some are deeper than others.

 

Hiking the Horn Loop in Hornstrandir
Doc admiring Hornbjarg whilst hiking the Horn Loop.

 

Flowers Overlooking Veiðileysufjörður in Hornstrandir
Taking a lunch break looking at Veiðileysufjörður

 

Stream in Hornstrandir
Just one of many stream crossings

 

Veiðileysufjörður in Hornstrandir
Beautiful Veiðileysufjörður

 

Waterfall in Hornstrandir
More waterfall

 

Waterfall and Stream in Hornstrandir
A very big stream crossing to get to the Horn Loop

 

Steinþórsstandur in Hornstrandir
Steinþórsstandur

 

Hiking the Horn Loop Hornstrandir
We made it ~halfway through the Horn Loop, to Hornbjarg!

 

Hiking the Horn Loop Hornstrandir
The amazing view of Hornvík from up on the Horn

 

Streams near Veiðileysufjörður in Hornstrandir
Streams near Veiðileysufjörður

 

Veiðileysufjörður in Hornstrandir
Waiting for the ferry in Veiðileysufjörður